Seasons with Scott

The Gardening Seasons with Scott

Spring

Now is the time to get started on those flower beds! Cut back any remaining perennials and grasses not cut back in the fall.

This is the time to fertilize the beds with a well balanced fertilizer such as 13-13-13 (granular). This will help all perennials, bulbs, evergreen shrubs, and smaller trees.

An application of a pre-emergent to all flower beds is recommended at this time.

After the pre-emergent is laid down it’s time to mulch the beds.  There are many choices in mulch, it is really a personal preference as to which to use.

We will use a Cotton Burr Compost in some beds (rose beds and annual beds), as this decomposes into the soil making better planting soil.

We also use screened, partially decomposed hardwood mulch in the shrub beds.  It is beautiful stuff and very dark, much like freshly turned soil.

It is important to monitor the soil moisture – Spring is when every living thing is starting their growth cycle, needing at least 1" of moisture a week.  If we’ve had a dry winter it is even more important to make sure to water your lawn and beds.

This is the optimum time to prune low hanging branches on trees, prune or sheer non-flowering shrubs and evergreens, and to check closely for insects or insect damage.

Evergreen, Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Hydrangea, Holly, and Dogwoods would benefit from an acidic-based fertilizer such as Mir-acid; also, after these plants bloom it would be a good time to re-apply the Mir-acid.

As soon as the danger of frost has past is a good time to prune any roses.

~New school of thought on roses is to prune in the spring, not fall.  This allows us to wait and see what “Mother Nature” kills back first, then prune the roses as needed.~

Shrub roses can be cut back, if you desire, to about 8” above the soil.  The hybrids need to be cleaned out of cross-branching, dead or diseased canes and cut back to leave 4 or 5 good sturdy canes.

A dose of blood meal will help with new growth, dark green foliage and robust blooms! (Not to mention helping to improve soil quality, boost earthworm activity and help keep rabbits at bay. Those furry little guys are eating everything these days!)  If you do not use blood meal, choose a balanced fertilizer with an insecticide too, Fertilome (rose food) works well.

There are so many different opinions, suggestions, and “rules of thumb” on roses – this is just a brief generalization of housekeeping.  Your local rose society or retailer would be able to answer or help with further problems and questions.  Remember “Good Housekeeping” is the key to a successful rose garden… keeping diseased plants and leaves picked up and not put into the compost pile is a good idea.

~ Enough about roses. ~

Around Mother’s Day is the time to install all your spring/summer annuals and add perennials (new, or divided from your existing gardens).  Most perennials are okay to divide – except for peonies, they need division in the fall after the first killing frost.  Be sure to add a slow timed release multi-purpose fertilizer to the annual beds.  They will benefit from a liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season as well.

Just as important, be sure to deadhead the spent blooms and dead leaves from the perennial gardens and annual beds, keeping annuals in check by routinely pinching the plants back – encouraging more blooms and healthier plants.

Enjoy the fruits of your labor – remember to stop and smell those beautiful roses!

Summer

About the only things growing by leaps and bounds in the heat of the summer are the weeds! Keep those guys under control by pulling, hoeing, or chemical warfare! (Used sparingly of course)  Afterward, another application of your favorite pre-emergent would keep others from growing back.

As soon as those spring blooming shrubs are done blooming – prune off the dead-spent blooms or sheer the shrub back to a manageable size to be ready for the next on-set of blooms.

Remember to keep those newly planted annuals properly watered throughout the heat of the summer – and about every 3rd week a water-soluble fertilizer (peter’s plant food or Miracle grow) would be beneficial for growth and more blooms.

Now is the time that those pesky little bugs are active.  Any plant that is under stress is an easy target for welcoming insects, as well as some healthy plants, too;  that is why it is important to regularly check the trees and shrubs in your gardens for damage or infestations.  Treat problems accordingly.

Towards the end of summer (September) is about the best time to divide any daylilies or irises and move them in the garden. (And much like the roses – there are daylily and iris societies that can help with specific problems and questions.)

September/October is the time to stop pruning the roses – the cuts need time to heal before frost. If pruning persists past October it encourages new growth, which if hit by frost, may do damage to the plant.

Fall/Autumn

Those weeds are still there – another application of pre-emergent will help keep any lingering seeds from growing.

After the first hard frost is the best time to dig and divide the peonies – making sure to replant the same depth as before.  I have dug peonies throughout the year, and fall is best. As my Grandma always said, “They bloom best next year.”  I usually put in a handful of bone meal in the bottom of the hole to help root growth and minimize transplant shock.

This is the time to divide other perennials as well, such as lambs ear, lythrum, poppies, soap wart and daisies just to name a few.

Fertilize the perennial beds for the last time of the year with a well balanced fertilizer (13-13-13) to help the plants make it through the winter.

Prune the summer blooming shrubs once more.  Now is the time to sheer them hard (Spirea) to shape the crowns and rejuvenate the shrubs for spring growth.

A good rule of thumb on perennials (again from Grandma) is, “If it’s brown, cut is down.” Usually applies!

Install fall seasonal color – pansies, mums, kale, mustard, or chard.

After the hard frost and the mums are dead, time to install spring flowering bulbs.  They can be installed, ideally in November/December, but can be planted until the ground freezes.

 

Some like to plant pansies over the top of the newly planted bulbs, this is a great idea and works well for extending color beds.  The pansies are tough and can take the cold temps. They are cheerful in the spring as the snow is melting and are hidden by the bulbs when they start to grow and bloom.

 

Lastly, this is a great time to deep fertilize your shade and ornamental trees, as well as shrubs.

I’ve referred to “Grandma” in my maintenance care, and because of my grandparents, I’ve been involved in gardening for many years.  They instilled in me that any job worth doing is worth doing well, and that has carried over in my profession.  The homes that I work with are taken care of as if they were my own home.  This is a passion of mine, and I truly love working outdoors and with plant material.

I hope to see you in the garden!